99 Essential Restaurants 2014

Angelini Osteria

photo by Anne Fishbein

The past year has seen a renaissance of Italian pasta in Los Angeles, with a number of fantastic new places devoted to making it. But it’s still hard to find a better Italian restaurant in this town than Gino Angelini’s osteria on Beverly Boulevard. Open since 2001, Angelini Osteria is happily timeless, and as good as ever. Go at lunch in truffle season for a plate of ethereal spaghetti alla chitarra with black truffles and sausage, or for a weekend dinner of porchetta — a glorious ode to pig borne aloft by servers with Old World accents, then carved tableside. The food is terrific, and the little dining room is as crowded as an Italian farmhouse kitchen at mealtimes, only here, the old men will be eating bone marrow with saffron gnocchetti with their bottles of wine. Invariably, the chef will be in the kitchen, the house-made pasta will be bliss-inducing — and there will be affogato for dessert.

-- Amy Scattergood