99 Essential Restaurants 2014

JTYH Heavy Noodle II

photo by Anne Fishbein

In the vast pantheon of noodle-dom — the pasta rolled paper-thin by Italian grandmothers, the noodles pulled and strung tableside at Chinese restaurants, the udon pounded and sliced as finely as filaments — there are few things as glorious as a bowl of knife-shaved noodles done in the manner of Shanxi. At JTYH, an unassuming restaurant at the back of a Rosemead parking lot, there are many, many bowls of some of the best hand-shaved noodles in Los Angeles. You can choose your method of delivery, as half the menu, more than 30 dishes, is devoted to the noodles. They come heavily laced with Sichuan peppercorns in a numbing dan dan sauce; submerged in a soup with stewed beef tendon; pan-fried with pieces of meltingly tender lamb. Once you tire of noodles, you might try some of the dumplings that restaurant workers often make at one of the center tables in the afternoons. Or the excellent leek buns, their edges fried to gorgeous filigrees. Or just get them to go (sold frozen, they’re 50 for $15), and order another bowl of noodles.

-- Amy Scattergood