99 Essential Restaurants 2014

Pollo a la Brasa

photo by Anne Fishbein

If rotisserie chicken seems like a banal dish, it’s time to head over to a certain Peruvian chicken shack in Koreatown. If you’re not a regular at Pollo a la Brasa (and you should be), you can Google it, or just drive until you see what looks like a dilapidated woodcutter’s cottage, complete with smoke rising from the chimney and piles of actual wood stacked outside. Nope, it’s not an errant movie set but rather home to some of this town’s best roasted chicken, spiced with garlic and pepper and wood smoke from the fires smoldering behind the little counter. You can order a whole or half bird, but, regardless of how much you get, you’ll want it with a pile of fries and warm tortillas and as much of the house-made green sauce as you can stand. Pull the bird apart with your hands, load your tortillas and douse everything with the contents of those magic squirt bottles of sauce (it’s probably what keeps the woodcutter going, too).

-- Amy Scattergood