99 Essential Restaurants 2014

Ricky’s Fish Tacos

photo by Danny Liao

If you’ve spent any time eating so-called street food in Los Angeles, you know that chef Ricky Piña almost certainly has the best fish tacos in town. You probably also know that his Ricky’s Fish Tacos serves Baja-style fish and shrimp tacos, and not much else — not that you need him to, since one (or two or three) of each on a paper plate in our permanent summer is about all you need in this world. What you almost certainly don’t know: when and where to find Ricky and his tacos, since time and space and permits are variables less exacting than his awesome tacos. Piña has moved from a stand in a parking lot on Virgil to one in Chinatown, then to an actual, eagerly awaited food truck, which he parked back at his original location, just for fun. You’ll need to check his Twitter feed and SigAlert for the rest of it, but wherever and whenever you find them, Piña’s tacos are worth whatever it takes to get them. In a parking lot. Outside a truck. Really, wherever.

-- Amy Scattergood