99 Essential Restaurants 2014

Salt’s Cure

photo by Anne Fishbein

If you had to eat breakfast, lunch and dinner at one L.A. restaurant forever and ever, which place would you pick? We might have to choose Salt’s Cure, a choice made more obvious by the fact that the restaurant now is open for all those meals, every day. Everything at Salt’s Cure is deceptively simple, from the barely decorated room (it’s not much more than a kitchen surrounded by tables) to the spare menu written on a blackboard on the back wall, with descriptions like “pork chop” and “1/2 chicken.” But beginning with breakfast and continuing through the day, Salt’s Cure delivers the food we’d like to make for ourselves if we only had the time and talent. There are no better pancakes in town than the oatmeal griddle cakes, which manage to be both hearty and light. For brunch, there’s plenty of meat and eggs for those looking to eat off the previous night’s festivities, as well as smoked fish on toast with slivers of red onion for those with a lighter appetite. And at dinner, the house-butchered huge hunks of meat satisfy a very primal need, while also delivering more nuanced pleasures in their expert cooking and smart accompaniments. It’s a formula that never gets old.

-- Besha Rodell