Angelini Osteria | 99 Essential Restaurants 2015

Angelini Osteria

photo by Anne Fishbein

Angelini Osteria opened its small door on Beverly Boulevard in October 2001, but the old-school Italian restaurant is so embedded in our restaurant scene that it seems physically bigger than it actually is and considerably older and wiser than its 13 years. Indeed, some of the city’s most serious disciples of Italian cuisine have passed through these doors and sat in these chairs. Yet for all its influence, it nonetheless feels like a great neighborhood restaurant, a place where you can drop in for a nice lunch with friends or dinner with the in-laws when they’re in town. On this menu, everything feels like a greatest hit, even the daily specials: You’ll be more than satisfied with a deceptively simple spaghetti alla carbonara, a towering piece of Nonna Elvira’s famed lasagne, a delicate branzino or the porchetta that’s carved to order tableside on Saturdays. That you’ll have an affogato for dessert is a given. —Tien Nguyen