Coni'Seafood | 99 Essential Restaurants 2015

Coni’Seafood

photo by Anne Fishbein

In some circles, the price of a ride from LAX is a meal at Coni’Seafood, and whether you’re giving the ride or bumming one, everyone wins. Because here in this unassuming gray building on the great Imperial Highway, you have chef Sergio Peñuelas’ famed Sinaloa-style pescado zarandeado, an enormous snook filleted, marinated and grilled until varnished bronze. And while the hipper places in town are currently enamored with the idea of the kitchen sheet tray as serverware, this is probably the only place in town where its use actually makes sense: Short of the grill itself, there’s probably no other way to bring the snook to your table. The fish is fantastic on its own or wrapped in a tortilla. Your meal will be complete — and the traveller’s debt fully repaid — when the aguachiles and the cheesy swordfish tacos are delivered to the table. Welcome home. —Tien Nguyen