Cemitas Poblanas Elvirita | 99 Essential Restaurants 2015

Cemitas Poblanas Elvirita

photo by Danny Liao

A sedate little dining hall in Boyle Heights, located across from one of L.A.’s oldest and largest cemeteries, has for years been the answer to the question: Where can you find the greatest cemita poblana in town? Admittedly, competition is stiffer these days, with a growing number of Pueblan taco trucks slinging the signature two-fisted sesame roll sandwich, stacked with avocado, chipotle peppers, soft quesillo cheese and a paper-thin sheet of breaded steak. Yet when you arrive at Cemitas Poblanas Elvirita at the height of the weekend rush, right as the roving ranchera band starts to play, and tuck into a hulking, decadent, slightly oily cemita de milanesa, you’ll understand why the title belt has yet to change hands. —Garrett Snyder