Grand Central Market | 99 Essential Restaurants 2015

Grand Central Market

photo by Anne Fishbein

You will hear grumblings from all kinds of people about the gentrification of Grand Central Market, the juice bars and the expensive coffee, the hipsters and their sustainable meat. But precisely what we love about the market and its renewal is how much it feels like all of Los Angeles: the artisanal wood-fired pizza but also the sloppy chow mein, the hipsters but also the construction workers. We love it for the newcomers — particularly Wexler’s Deli and its amazing lox and pastrami, Valerie and its traditional lunch counter, Sticky Rice and its double-sided street-food stall, DTLA Cheese and its awesome cheese selection — but we also love it for its old-school vendors and grocers. We’ve been known to start with a few oysters from the new Oyster Gourmet, then move on to a heaping pile of carnitas from Tacos Tumbras a Tomas. People said the overhaul could make Grand Central the Ferry Building of L.A. but we say, screw the Ferry Building. Grand Central has more heart, more grit, more choice, and we’d take it over San Francisco’s gleaming hall of fanciness any day. —Besha Rodell