Guerrilla Tacos | 99 Essential Restaurants 2015

Guerrilla Tacos

photo by Garrett Snyder

To truly appreciate and understand Guerrilla Tacos, first throw out your idea of what a taco might contain, what the definition of a torta is or in what location you’re likely to find some of the city’s most exciting cooking. Wes Avila’s truck, which you can find parked outside of fine coffeehouses in the Arts District and Culver City (depending on the day), is a pilgrimage site for folks who might like their tostada topped with deep pink hamachi, vibrant orange uni and a smattering of edible flowers, or their torta made from a small buttery toasted croissant piled with lamb meatballs, red pepper escabeche and a forest of arugula. Tacos are made from the best vegetables of the season and amped up by Avila’s boundless imagination, as well as a fine-dining background that shows itself in his impeccable seasoning and attention to beauty on the plate. Leave your preconceptions at home and reap the rewards.— Besha Rodell