Night + Market | 99 Essential Restaurants 2015

Night + Market

photo by Anne Fishbein

All restaurants reflect to some extent the personality and passions of their owners and chefs, but Night + Market and Night + Market Song are extreme examples, in the best possible way. Chef-owner Kris Yenbamroong has created two spaces that are all him, combining a passion for the food of his Northern Thai heritage, his love of funky wines and his somewhat wonky art-house sensibilities. At the original West Hollywood location, attached to his parents’ more conventional Thai restaurant, Night + Market still feels a little like a pop-up more than four years after opening, the sparseness of the space allowing you to concentrate fully on the blazingly spicy, gorgeously complex food coming out of the kitchen. At the newer location in Silver Lake, the room is anything but sparse — orange walls compete with garish flowered tabletops, beads hang from the doorways, Cindy Crawford stares alluringly over her shoulder from the large poster that overlooks the dining room. Here, Yenbamroong gets even bolder with his food (we didn’t know it was possible), serving pork blood soup, and fried chicken with mashed water bugs as relish. Don’t be fooled by the bluster of these choices — what makes the food here so exceptional is the extreme care taken, the roasting of chilies, the layering of flavors. Behind the bravado is a thoughtful, delicate touch with even the spiciest, stinkiest dish.— Besha Rodell