Pa-Ord Noodle | 99 Essential Restaurants 2015

Pa-Ord Noodle

photo by Anne Fishbein

Of the many terrific items on Pa-Ord’s menu, it’s perhaps the boat noodles for which the restaurant is most famed, and rightly so: It’s a terrific, especially finessed bowl of soup, the sort of thing you want when it’s blistering cold outside and need to spice things up inside to stay warm. Pa-Ord, in fact, is a noodle specialist, and you can’t go wrong with most anything within its specialty here. Indeed, the restaurant is so serious about its oodles of noodles that you can specify the type of noodle you want in your order (in case you’re lost, the restaurant helpfully displays its different types of noodles in numbered jars near the front counter). In addition to its acclaimed noodles, Pa-Ord also happens to make crispy pork exceptionally well; try it tossed with Chinese broccoli. The “pa,” or auntie, in the kitchen here is Lawan Bhanduram, a fantastic chef whose name you’d probably know by now if the media found auntie chefs as sexy as tattooed ones who speak bro. Alas. —Tien Nguyen