Providence | 99 Essential Restaurants 2015

Providence

photo by Anne Fishbein

Chef and co-owner Michael Cimarusti will challenge anyone who trots out the tired “fine dining is dead” trope with the fact that Providence, perhaps the finest of fine-dining restaurants in Los Angeles, had its best year on record in 2014. That could have to do with a spring freshening, which gave not only the dining room but also the menu a subtle rejiggering, but probably not. The things that were always great about Providence remain great: the dedication to sustainable seafood; Cimarusti’s ability to coax the purest pleasure from each piece of fish and shellfish that goes through his kitchen; the outstanding formal but personable service; the showers of truffle over your soft-cooked eggs; the utter beauty of a dish ironically named “the Ugly Bunch” (there’s gold leaf and geoduck involved, and it’s astounding). Hooray for luxury, may it never, ever die. —Besha Rodell