Ricky's Fish Tacos | 99 Essential Restaurants 2015

Ricky's Fish Tacos

photo by Danny Liao

It was a perfect L.A. moment: standing in a parking lot across the street from a Vons, eating the most glorious fish tacos, which had been fried right before you on a makeshift setup. It was too good to be true. The original iteration of Ricky’s Fish Tacos came to an end, but he’s now returned with a truck (which he parks in that same parking lot), which is a little more typical, I suppose, but doesn’t change the fact that these fish tacos could rival any fish taco anywhere. Ricky Piña’s Baja-style tacos are the stuff of legend, the delicate white fish cooked to an ideal golden brown, topped with chopped cabbage and pico de gallo and folded into a warm flour tortilla. There’s creamy white sauce and spicy red salsa to drizzle at your discretion, and there are shrimp tacos as well if you want to mix it up. For $3 apiece, it really does not get any better than this.— Besha Rodell