Rocio's Mole de los Dioses | 99 Essential Restaurants 2015

Rocio's Mole de los Dioses

photo by Kevin Scanlon

If you have yet to experience the loving embrace that is Rocio Camacho’s soulful Mexican cooking, whether it be her supple huitlacoche empanadas tinted nopales green, spicy lamb mixiotes cooked in a corn husk pouch, or the cup of spicy shrimp broth that serves as an amuse-bouche, then the drive to Sun Valley is worth any amount of traffic. The chief pleasure at Rocio’s Mole de los Dioses is, of course, the moles, available in two dozen shades that span the spectrum in both color and spice, from the tar-black Oaxacan variety to the rather obscure mole de guales, made with wild pea pods and a brightening dose of tomatillos and jalapeño. It is perhaps a restaurant cliché to say you feel as if you’re dining in someone’s personal kitchen, but in an endearing, more formalized way, Rocio’s has perfected that exact sensation.— Garrett Snyder