Ruen Pair | 99 Essential Restaurants 2015

Ruen Pair

photo by Noah Galuten

It’s hard to convince people that one of L.A.’s must-try dishes is something called “salty turnip and egg,” but that doesn’t stop us from trying. Ruen Pair is known mainly as one of Thaitown’s best purveyors of late-night eats, a post-bar savior where you can gobble enough crab fried rice and spicy noodles to absorb some of the boozy damage you’ve done. But it’s also a great place for a ridiculously cheap lunch, or an outing to impress friends who might be in the market for some duck feet soup. It’s one of those restaurants where diners who would prefer to stick to basics can get a fantastic red curry, for instance, while others might feast on pork blood soup or raw crab salad. Go for whatever floats your boat, but be sure to get that salty turnip and egg, a kind of crispy omelette/patty that is slightly sweet and slightly salty and goldenly delicious, at any time of day.— Besha Rodell