Tacos Leo | 99 Essential Restaurants 2015

Tacos Leo

photo by Noah Galuten

At midnight on any given Friday night, a good portion of the late-night dining population in Los Angeles can be found at the parking lot of the 76 gas station at the corner of La Brea and Venice. Tacos Leo is the reason everyone’s here; it’s the truck that rolled onto the blogging radar around 2010 thanks to its fantastic al pastor, which it marinates on a rotating trompo that looks like the three-dimensional exclamation mark that came with your Windows 3.1 clipart package. On your order, a taquero will shave off a few thin slices of that marinated pork leg, flick them onto a warmed tortilla and follow it up with a quick slice of pineapple. It hardly needs anything else, but there’s a generous salsa bar here, too, if you want it. These tacos cost the same as they did four years ago: $1. But you know they’re worth at least twice that. —Tien Nguyen